Rudo M. sent us a great example of how “normal” is socially constructed. The photos below are of the box containing a Vidal Sassoon hair dryer for “normal” hair:
It’s also, “good” hair, as is said, in so many words, the blurb on the box said so:
Not too fine or coarse, normal hair is the most manageable hair type with the largest range of possible styles. Though it’s fun to experiment, even the easiest-to-care-for hair requires a regimen of regular maintenance. Proper styling tools with varying heats are crucial for keeping a healthy-looking shine, maintaining balance, and adding…
Yeah, so just in case it wasn’t clear already, “normal” hair is the bestest! It’s “not too fine or too coarse,” has the “largest range of possible styles,” is “fun,” and is totally the “easiest-to-care-for”!
Rudo is an African woman who wears her hair natural, so she knew right away that Vidal Sassoon didn’t count her hair as “normal.” So, what were the other options? If you’re not normal, what are you? Well, according to Vidal Sassoon, you are, of course, “fine” or “coarse.”
But a lot of good this does Rudo, since even the models on the “coarse” box are white with essentially straight hair! So much for a range of hair types! Well, at least we know that even white women with straight hair can be abnormal!
And, just in case you didn’t know already that being abnormal means being WRONG, coarse hair is “hard-to-style,” fine hair is limp, and both tend to “frizz.” What a difference from Vidal Sassoon practically falling over itself praising normal hair.
Here’s another example, sent in by @adentweets. There’s “normal” and there’s “thick” hair.
Cara McC. sent us a Covergirl commercial selling foundation for “normal,” “oily,” and “sensitive” skin. Again, they include a range of skin types (and probably include women who represent three different races) in order to point to the diversity of skin types, but nonetheless label one “normal” (the one represented by the white woman).
For more examples of whiteness as normal and people of color as deviant (or, if we measure by Vidal Sassoon, non-existent), see our posts on Michelle Obama’s “flesh-colored” gown, Johnson’s lotion for “normal to darker skin,” bandaids and other “flesh-colored” things, why Sotomayor may be “biased,” families vs. ethnic families, and people of color add “spice.”
Lisa Wade, PhD is an Associate Professor at Tulane University. She is the author of American Hookup, a book about college sexual culture; a textbook about gender; and a forthcoming introductory text: Terrible Magnificent Sociology. You can follow her on Twitter and Instagram.
Comments 94
Jamie — January 9, 2010
I'm privileged with respect to having my hair classified as "normal," but for me to walk around with some notion that everyone should emulate it because some advertisement thinks its "fun" is completely absurd. Further, even with "normal" hair, if it were so easy to manage people wouldn't need products at all.
My mom is a hairdresser, and has always said it's considerably more difficult to style coarse or fine hair into the modern hairstyles people ask for...but NEVER does she refer to anyone as having "normal" hair, or tout its superiority to the former.
I feel the same way when I go down the cosmetics aisles and see facial soaps that are labeled, "Normal Skin." Normal, oily, and dry are so difficult to pin-down. (It's not exactly the same, but it's definitely similar).
baldy — January 9, 2010
well seeing as i have no hair, this is all a bit lost on me. i never see stuff like this as i have no use for it. bladness is totally normal, i swear!!
Nim — January 9, 2010
Not to fine and not too coarse! It's baby bear hair!
Anonymous — January 9, 2010
I agree with the post and Jamie's reply, but I think that John Yum, your comment is sort of excessive. I think that while it is important to realize that a lot of these beauty "standards" are arbitrary and silly and be conscious of the social structures they reinforce, I don't think that it's fair to project that one should do something constructive in society instead of blow dry one's hair. That's rather extremist. I also think that one is capable of styling one's hair without prostituting oneself. That doesn't even technically make sense; no one pays me to care about my hair. I think that the entire point of studying these kinds of issues in society is to make one aware of them and reinforce that it is OK to be different and to be who you are without the pressure. I happy to enjoy doing my hair sometimes; big deal. I do it the way I like to make myself happy, not to conform to arbitrary beauty ideals. Your comment is just really unnecessarily hostile, especially because this blog actually does send up arbitrary beauty standards as much as it does the tools for achieving them.
Sarah — January 9, 2010
Artificial norms are remarkably beneficial to the pocketbooks of companies that make products designed to normalize "abnormal" features (hair dryers, makeup, clothing, almost everything that can be purchased). I wonder how much better society would be at accepting differences without capitalism?
therantingteenager — January 9, 2010
My hair is absoluely abnormal then...frizzy and rough and big and curly.
BTW, you've won the award! Well, not an actual award, but THE award anyway. :)
Here:http://therantingteenager.blogspot.com/2010/01/guess-what-i-got-award.html
Quijotesca — January 9, 2010
I'm confused by the claim that they're "simplifying hair care." Yeah, nothing says simplicity like having a different hair dryer for different types of hair.
Ouch_Yeti — January 9, 2010
Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz I get so tired of all this race stuff.
I'm biracial, I"m black and white. I have very long curly hair. I get compliments from people of all ethnicities. I'm also what's considered to be quite attractive by many. I never thought of myself as attractive mostly because my older sisters were the ones getting a lot of compliments. Imagine! We now live in a world where mixed race people are seen as beautiful. The human race is evolving and ya'll are still stuck on the black and white.
And before anyone tries to jump at me about race, skin color etc. My siblings and I have gotten sh** about our race from all races. People pre judge each other all the time whether you're the Pope or the cab driver.
Namaste fools!
Naomi — January 9, 2010
Normalcy as a concept doesn't just relate to 'race'/ethnicity. It's also been explored in depth in relation to disability and non-disability (what non-disabled society tends to call 'able-bodiedness', a misnomer). Lennard Davis argues that the Eugenics projects of the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries were where concepts of the normal originated, and these were based around physical and mental normalcy - which were of course considered 'natural' rather than socially constructed.
Martha — January 9, 2010
I have to say, this made me giggle.
Something tells me that "not too fine, not too coarse, easy to manage" hair is actually not the norm. But that would be stating the obvious, right?
While I'm here stating the obvious, I actually have to say that objectively, it's actually a very clever marketing tool.
Companies like vidal sassoon don't really have to worry about what the normal product does. Who cares what normal hair is? Just by having a normal product, they have automatically created a larger (and much more lucrative) market for those who feel their hair deviates from the norm.
Which seems to be almost everyone I know.
If they can make you feel inadequate, they are more likely to get your money.
And that goes for everyone. Including those with this illusive 'normal' hair, who would obviously be guilty of letting their glorious illusive normal hair go to waste by not buying into/buying X product.
Who believes this stuff?
Freznow — January 9, 2010
For the record, 'fine' 'medium' and 'coarse', in the hair world, refer to the thickness of individual strands. Fine hair is that smaller than one part of 2 ply cotton sewing thread, medium is the equivalent of that, coarse is anything larger. Coarse hair tends to be more durable.
Oddly enough, most African Americans have fine, somewhat thin hair. Curly does not equal coarse. Straight does not equal normal.
And none of those hair dryers do anything different from each other, I'd bet.
For the Kids (Updated) « The Dithering of a District Diva — January 9, 2010
[...] according to Vidal Sassoon, White hair is “Normal” hair. Annnnnnnnd its [...]
Andrew — January 9, 2010
"Just by having a normal product, they have automatically created a larger (and much more lucrative) market for those who feel their hair deviates from the norm."
Very well said.
Also, it's key that VS does not just sell hair dryers. Rather, they brand a whole range of generally unnecessary hair products that are categorized by hair type and color even while being chemically indistinguishable. We're supposed to believe that the individual qualities of our hair each necessitate very particular treatments, and to trust the brand that caters to the most variables.
Naturally, we'll also need our other abnormalities addressed as well, since they're "problems" too. Grey hair? Thinning hair? Baldness? Susceptibility to weather? Hair on places other than the head? All perfectly natural features, but we've let advertising convince us that they're undesirable and abnormal.
Funny, though, that nobody mentioned the obvious fact that all of the models on all three boxes are the same gender. Plenty of men feel the need to use these hot phallic power tools too, but for some reason women have the dubious privilege of being the default gender for haircare. For an easy laugh, here's the male version - http://www.lookmantastic.com/mens-electrical/hair-dryers Apparently, unlike women we have only one hair type, but we need MORE POWER to get it dry.
Emily — January 10, 2010
This reminds me of Gap's "Curvy" jeans, which I wore religiously until I checked their online description, which read, "Who needs perfect genes when you can have perfect jeans?"
I really resented that Gap presented the curvy body type as imperfect and in need of repair. If you're making jeans for curvy women, why would you insult them?
Sue — January 11, 2010
I once went to a Sassoon salon that was having a discount teaching day for junior stylists. They couldn't figure out what to do with my thick, African American hair. What a nightmare!
confabulate — January 11, 2010
This reminds me of the problems I have had finding a good hairdresser. I'm caucasian, but my hair isn't 'normal.' It's very fine, there is masses of it, and, most shockingly of all, it's curley. Most of the hairdressers I've been to wouldn't have a problem with this, if I saw my hair as an aboration and spent my mornings with a straightning iron. But I like my curly hair, which leads to lots of problems. I've had hairdressers:
argue with me that I would actually like having straight hair more
secretly straighten my hair (long story)
try to tell me that my hair will look better if I spend my mornings straightning it and then using curling tongs (?)
When I am adament that I want to keep my hair curley this has generally resulted in a dowdy style. Any attempts by me to ask for anything apart from this style were met with the claim that 'it won't suit your hair.' I now believe that a large amount of hairdressers are never trained to cut anything except 'normal' hair, with maybe a standard cut for problem types. Thankfully, I've now found an awesome hairdresser who cuts my hair how I like it and never preaches to me about how I should want my hair straight. She has no problem giving me awesome haircuts that other hairdressers would deem 'unworkable.'
Tumor — January 16, 2010
I was going to point out that perhaps this is sold in a European country where there arn't many blacks at all, but I figured that would have been mentioned. If that was the case, then it would make sense. People who are unhappy with their hair will want to buy the dryer for "abnormal hair" because they think it will help they're hair become more "normal" and more desireable. People who feel like they already have desireable hair will buy the first dryer.
Annie — February 2, 2010
I went to buy some Garnier Fructis shampoo/conditioner yesterday and the first bottle I saw said it was for "normal" hair. It did not specify what it meant by "normal" but when you go to their website, they list it as "everyday, healthy hair" (http://www.garnierusa.com/_en/_us/our_products/range-struct.aspx?tpcode=OUR_PRODUCTS^PRD_HAIRCARE^FRUCTIS^FRUCTIS_HOME)
So people with wavy/curly hair, "frizzy, dry, unmanageable" hair, fine or flat hair, and "fragile, hard to grow" hair apparently do not have everyday, healthy hair/normal hair. That's interesting... I wonder about the statistics of the amount of people who have certain hair types. In my school, it seems the majority of the girls have thin wavy/curly hair which they straighten every day, causing it to be dry/damaged. So which shampoo would they use, with their thin wavy/curly dry/damaged hair? Although, I wonder if you would even notice a difference in your hair if you tried out all the types...
(It is hard to see the text on the bottles at their website, but WalMart has bigger pictures: http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_constraint=0&ic=48_0&search_query=garnier+shampoo&Find.x=0&Find.y=0&Find=Find)
For The Kids (UPDATED) / The Dithering of a District Diva — February 22, 2010
[...] according to Vidal Sassoon, White hair is “Normal” hair. Annnnnnnnd its 2010. Yaya from ANTM, my shero and naptural hair inspiration, in an international [...]
kem — April 4, 2010
what does a normal hair looks like?
“Normal” « Examples from Everyday Life — January 21, 2011
[...] or think (even some things that I do or think) and proclaim, “It’s not normal.” Hair dryers are designated for “Normal Hair” and make-up for “Normal Skin.” Next time you use the term, or hear some else do so, pause to ask yourself, how did that get [...]
Frida — May 26, 2011
I have to disagree with this post.
My main interest for 7 years now has been hair, haircare and hair science.
The hair classifiers "fine", "normal" and "coarse" are pretty accurate as they are. Normal IS the normal hair type, as it is the most common in the world, hence "normal". It also is, usually, the most manageable hair type just for that reason (not too fine and slippery, but not too coarse). It is in the middle, a mix of coarse and fine, it is the average, it is... The normal. That doesn't make it better or worse, just normal.
I have the classical scandinavian hair - fine and thin. That's the way it is. It is harder to "tame" than normal hair. But just because of that, it doesn't make it any less worth than normal hair. It's still shiny and soft. And coarse haired people get wicked awesome volume. This works for skin as well.
Frida — May 26, 2011
Also, to add to my previous post - normal, fine or coarse hair says nothing about hair or skin colour, nor does it say anything about it's shape (straight, wavy or curly). All it says is about the texture. Fine hair is very slippery with little to no friction, and usually (but not always) quite thin. Coarse hair is the opposite to fine, you can feel the scales of the hair when you run your fingers in it, and it's usually quite thick. Normal hair is, you guessed it, in the middle of those two. It doesn't feel slippery like fine hair, but not that rough like coarse hair either.
This hair type classification is really useful, because fine haired people usually get in trouble with their hair if they use treatments meant for coarse hair, and vice versa. Normal hair is, again, usually easier to treat because it can use treatments from both sides of the spectrum. But, again, that's all. It's just the type of texture. Nothing about skin or hair colour, shape of length.
5 Normal Hair Sites — June 11, 2011
[...] Shedding – William Collier DesignInformation on normal hair loss, shedding, and hair growth.Normal vs. Abnormal Hair and Skin Sociological ImagesJan 9, 2010 The photos below are of the box containing a Vidal Sassoon hair dryer for normal [...]
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