Six years ago, my wife and I moved to Fargo, North Dakota for my job at Concordia College across the Red River in Moorhead, Minnesota. Growing up in Bergen County, New Jersey, my view of the country looked a lot like the famous 1976 New Yorker cover, “View of the World from 9th Avenue.”
As a kid, a friend’s father tried to convince us that North Dakota didn’t exist (a take on the Bielefeld Conspiracy gag) and it seemed somewhat plausible. Even as I prepared to move, most of my understanding of Minnesota was informed by The Mighty Ducks and, like most people, what little I knew about North Dakota came from the Coen Brothers’ movie, Fargo. In other words, I was profoundly ignorant about the people, the culture, and the geography of our new home.
Six years later, in early June of this year, my wife and I packed up and moved back east to Saratoga Springs, NY for my new position at Skidmore College. In that time, I have had the pleasure of teaching many remarkable students and working alongside some wonderful colleagues. We have made lifelong friendships with people who are smart, progressive, and cosmopolitan, and who violate nearly all of the stereotypes of Midwesterners (except for calling soda “pop” — that’s actually real).
I’ve learned an incredible amount during these years and have come away with some perspective that I don’t think I would’ve had if I’d never left the East Coast. Here are four important things I’ve learned from living in the Midwest:
1. There is no Midwest. Ohio is different from Michigan, which is different from Minnesota. But Grand Rapids, MN in the Iron Range is also different from Minneapolis. Indeed, some of the identity of being an Iron Ranger is constructed in opposition to the culture of people from “The Cities.” While most Minnesotans and North Dakotans I know identify as Midwestern, evidence shows the percentages identifying as Midwestern are lower than for people living in Indiana. In my experience, North Dakotans especially are more likely to specify that they’re from the “Upper Midwest.”
But when it comes to understanding “the culture of the Midwest,” the divides of urban and rural, major city and small city are far more profound than the differences between Midwest and East Coast. The cultural difference between Chicago and NYC is smaller than the cultural distance from Minot, ND and St. Paul, MN. The caveat I would offer is that many urban dwellers in the Midwest are only a generation or two removed from a farm and tend to have greater familiarity with rural life than I have encountered in the East.
An important lesson to an ignorant East Coaster like myself is that “The Midwest” is far from monolithic.
2. If the American Dream is alive anywhere, it’s in the Midwest. With a little help from a 577 page surprise bestseller by a French economist with a name we’re stilling learning to pronounce correctly, we’re in the midst of a national conversation about inequality. It is now well-established that income and wealth inequalities are as great as they have been since the Gilded Age and that the extent of inequality is far greater in the U.S. than in Europe. Likewise (or perhaps consequently), the United States has much lower social mobility than Europe or Canada. Many social scientists and political figures alike fear that the toxic combination of high inequality and low social mobility seriously jeopardizes the dual promises of meritocracy and middle class prosperity that make up the American Dream.
But social scientists have also shown the United States is not uniformly unequal. As the Equality of Opportunity Project has shown, the states of the western Midwest (WI, MN, ND, SD, NE, IA, MT) are among the most equal and socially mobile in the country (see figure).
Though I grew up with it, when I go back to New York or New Jersey now, I’m stunned by both the concentrated poverty and the extreme wealth. Fargo, a city of almost 200,000, has a booming economy and one of the largest Microsoft campuses and still can’t support a Banana Republic. Meanwhile, nine of the forty-five Gucci stores in America are within 20 miles of each other in the New York area. Of course, major Midwestern cities, like Minneapolis, have greater wealth and poverty, but they simply cannot compare to the intergenerational durability of wealth and permanence of poverty in either the Northeast or, especially, the South. If the American Dream of hard work and upward mobility is alive anywhere today, it’s in the Midwest (actually, it’s in Denmark or Norway where social mobility is much greater).
3. The Midwest has a deserved chip on its shoulder. The nation’s centers of power are on the coasts. The economy and the press are in New York. The government and military are in D.C. The culture industry is in L.A. And over half the nation’s population lives within 50 miles of a coast (39% live in coastal counties representing less than 10% of the country’s land (http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/population.html)). As a result, the Midwest (especially the Upper Midwest) is too often neglected. A snowflake falls in Midtown Manhattan and CNN flies into crisis mode. It takes serious devastation (or an absolutely massive oil boom) for the Coastal press to take notice of little ol’ North Dakota.
One of the more cringe-inducing experiences in Fargo is seeing a visiting band or comedian take the stage and make a hackneyed joke along the lines of “Wow. I’m in Fargo. It sure is cold!” And here’s the thing: the crowd eats it up! Because it’s a form of recognition. All that talk about the “real America” from the likes of Sarah Palin? Those are desperate cries that “hey, we count, too!” Especially in places like Fargo, what I’d call “place entrepreneurs” engage in active PR campaigns to show that life isn’t as bad as you think way out here (e.g., the #ilovefargo hashtag on Twitter started by a local urban promoter).
There’s a defensiveness in the region that stems from a real neglect and a feeling of disempowerment. On the other hand, it’s worth noting that feeling of disempowerment is somewhat counteracted by the highly disproportional representation that these largely low population areas have in Congress (Obamacare’s “public option,” for example, was taken out of the bill by seven Senators representing 3.6% of the U.S. population).
4. It is a Christian country in the Upper Midwest. An acquaintance, a mother of two small children, told me a story about her move from Connecticut to Fargo. She enrolled her kids in a non-religiously-affiliated day care in Fargo and when she picked them up during the middle of the day, she found that they were saying a prayer before snack time. None of the parents seemed to have a problem with it. She pointed out that in CT, the parents would have flipped out. Now, it’s not because everybody in North Dakota is a pious Christian, but because Christianity is so assumed as a part of everyday life that having a quick prayer shouldn’t bother anybody. The level of diversity in CT makes that unthinkable. As one of the chaplains at Concordia College once told me, “this is Christendom.” It does not operate at the level of aggressive evangelism (in fact, most people I knew are progressive Lutherans). Rather, Christian is taken to be the default category.
The two facts that define New York and New Jersey where I grew up are incredible diversity and extreme inequality. I grew up with a lot of secular Jews and, during the December holiday season, the schools took great pains to have as many menorahs as Santas. Like the rest of the country, all parts of the Midwest are becoming more racially and religiously diverse. So, Christendom is in decline even the Upper Midwest, but there is not the public secularity of the East or the West coasts.
—
To many Midwesterners, these points may be blindingly obvious, but they are things I couldn’t see as an East Coaster. From my conversations with other coastal folk, I’m not alone. So, thank you to my Midwestern friends who put up with a loudmouthed New Jerseyan and taught me more about my country. To my East Coast friends and family, let’s try to reject that New Yorker cover vision of America.
Comments 22
Dean Hulse — July 11, 2014
Andrew, I guess we never discussed geography when we were busy putting pressure on the state's decision-makers, but I think many North Dakotans consider themselves to be living in the Great Plains, not the Midwest. Specifically, the northern Great Plains. Perhaps the geographical boundary that delineates this thinking is the 100th meridian, the subject of a biography on John Wesley Powell by Wallace Stegner.
Here's a quote from that book that has always spoken to me (and again could relate to the so-called vision surrounding our present-day oil boom). For context, Powell is addressing delegates (on August 5, 1889) to North Dakota's constitutional convention.
Here's what Stegner reports:
"Eastern Dakota, he [Powell] said, nearly always had enough rain, central Dakota sometimes did, and western Dakota practically never did. Both the Eastern belt, with adequate rainfall, and the western, which had to depend completely upon irrigation, were safe. The danger lay in the middle ... He meant that central Dakota was what the British in India called a 'famine belt,' though he had the political sense not to use that phrase ... When rain failed in a region that had made no preparations against drouth, failure was complete."
I'll end with this factoid for you and your readers: Every oil well that results from hydraulic fracturing--a.k.a. "fracking"--in western North Dakota requires between 1 million and 3 million gallons of water for the fracking process.
JM — July 11, 2014
The same is true of Nebraska......a environmentally divided state. Kansas?...green to non green.
And the Upper Midwest could be Minnesota...but it's also known as a Great Lakes State. Superior.
I think the personality of each state develops from how one must work to live there. And if the iron rangers work in the mines(or are often unemployed), that is a lot different than being a teacher in the Twin Cities or a doctor in Rochester MN. Choices. We all make them. Sometimes the decision has to be made because it's...the only job available...and is somewhere out of your comfort zone. Don't complain. Don't compare. Live it.
To understand the people, one has to live AND work in that person's state.
It doesn't happen with a vacation, or a now and then visit.
Just as Europe is made up of countries with different languages and cultures...so are the US states.
Mark Giddings — July 11, 2014
Thank you James for your comments. We do consider this area the Great Plains region. We also realize that we are not very well understood so the chip on the shoulder is true but we don't let it overwhelm us.
Thanks for being brave enough to move here. I have spent time in NE NJ and must say I was pleasantly surprised at how wonderful the area was. Until you immerse yourself in a community you cannot really understand it.
You have earned an advanced degree on Fargo-ollogy. Don't be a stranger and come back again someday. It might even feel like you have returned home. I'm sure you will be getting that feeling when you get back to the east coast. Moving home is always special.
Mark Giddings
Fargo, ND
Richard Spilman — July 11, 2014
I lived in Wichita for over twenty years and there, too, the Midwest/Great Plains debate cropped up. I wound that states in the West, even Colorado, did not consider Kansas "west" and that states like Missouri did not consider it Midwest (making me wonder if there isn't a rather Eastern bent to the idea of Mid-WEST). We too tended to think of ourselves as part of the Great Plains, but that seemed to matter little. Since Wyoming and Montana tend to opt out, we were left with a strip of land from the Dakotas to Oklahoma that had no particular regional identity at all and might best have been called "what's left over."I'd prefer to think of that area as part of the Midwest and would love to use Mideast to describe Ohio, Indiana, Illinois and so on.
When I was young an elderly friend of mine recalled talking to a friend of his grandmother. He mentioned he had spent some time in Iowa, and she smiled tolerantly, "That's nice, but here we pronounce it O-hi-o."
Diana Grosz — July 12, 2014
My mother's cousin from ND married and lived in D.C. for the rest of her life. She also traveled internationally and had a flat in Glasgow. Many of her stories to us where about times she told "easterner's" about North Dakota and their reactions. She said she was always proud of her heritage and the family she had back in ND.
Letta Page — July 14, 2014
Heck, I'm specific enough to say I'm from the Red River Valley... and then spend another five minutes explaining what that means and why it's so neat-o to have a river that flows "the wrong direction." I'm the Sarah Vowell of Fargo.
Emily — February 26, 2015
I am from Indiana, and so much of this rings absolutely true here as well, even down to the fact that we have an absolutely booming "place entrepreneur" thing going on here in Indianapolis. I like that you bring up some of the positive aspects of the Midwest, such as social mobility. We can't compete with the allure of the best things the coasts have to offer, but I think that social mobility is something to be proud of (if we can maintain it).
Karen — November 13, 2015
I am a transplant from Rochester, NY to Augusta, KS (East of Wichita). Us New Yorkers can say something and it sounds ok to us, but Kansans can take it as hurtful or as an insult and that is not what we meant. Then after it is said sometimes we can't explain it well enough as an apology and they don't care to hear it. And they wonder why people from the East sound so blunt.
Bo — March 17, 2016
I moved from North Jersey to Cedar Rapids, IA. I feel and have been treated like a "duck out of water". Jerseyites speak off the cuff and bluntly. They say "Holy God" instead of "Good Gosh". I could multitask and that scares working managers, supervisors that are afraid of me taking their job because I use COMMON SENSE. I don't talk funny, I don't dress funny. I am my own woman. So, I'm outta here!
m_duran — July 1, 2016
I don't agree, read: http://dotearth.blogs.nytimes.com/2016/01/01/a-vital-look-at-ignored-realities-in-midwest-flood-zone/
porcar — August 4, 2016
I disagree, look at that: http://www.pewforum.org/2015/05/12/chapter-3-demographic-profiles-of-religious-groups/
Sincerely, Portia
thomas56 — August 10, 2016
I don't agree. Read
http://www.pewforum.org/2015/05/12/chapter-3-demographic-profiles-of-religious-groups/
WestisBest — September 9, 2016
All the self centered thought patterns of east coasters is true...I think that's what the article is about. Same story as taking someone to Europe the first time and watch their eyes open realizing there is another part of the world. Since the comments are around "progressive thought", and "social mobility" it's obvious the article is written from a heavy leftist cesspool of socialist thought mindset.
Another perspective...I moved to Rochester, MN from Phoenix a year ago. Geography and it's cultural leanings being extremely localized is no different here. I find the culture of this area one of straight up "looserville". There is no "Minnesota nice", they are rude as hell both in stores and on roads. Insular and passive aggressive. They will mildly talk sports or travel with you, but you'll NEVER be invited to a social activity or dinner entering into the real fabric of their personal lives. You're not going hunting, ice fishing, to a game, or shopping with any of them. The nicest people we've met and by far the most fun are 4 doors down....and they were 50 years in Arizona until 3 years ago moved for a change.
The traditional "Christian" routine of Lutheran and Methodist sit on hands and get preached at dominates the non secular area. Hyper focused on kids. EVERYTHING is kids, kids, kids...ALL the time, every service, every conversation. People here do not really live life, they just survive and have a fake humbleness that is laughable. Narrow minds about. Few have ever traveled, and where they've been (Florida)...they dream about but none actually would ever move or leave the little insular, and comfortable, socialistic fog they operate inside. It's like a kid with a poop filled diaper, who says I know it stinks but it's warm and mine...and I'm going to defend it to the death. Proud and Narrow minded are very close to each other, and hard to detect until you dig a little.
The weather is hot and humid in summer, just miserable. The other 7 months it snows. The sports teams suck, and universities are overrated, our interns have demonstrated as such. The independent spirit of the western US is dead here...stay away if you want to live a full, active and adventurous life.
sagee7 — September 26, 2016
I do not agree that:
http://www.forbes.com/sites/christopherhelman/2012/12/10/americas-20-dirtiest-cities-2/
- Shemika
Rockin Ray — October 30, 2016
WAKE UP people... the date is 2017 very soon. The world is progressing .... far more than most americans realize. We are being left in the dust. A backwater very soon. they are building bullet trains that go 200+ miles an hour. Check out the roads you see in the Midwest. America couldnt master road building in 200 years. 60 minutes should have featured what they call ROADS in Kirksville Missouri. Makes some of the 3rd world countries roads look pretty good. After you see that your methods are not working in the long term uhhh do you change uhhh No you just keep doing what you have always done. Well people that wont get it in the coming Future of the World and if we plan to be a part of it ? we should start acting like it.
lance1954 — December 7, 2016
I don't agree. Read:
http://www.nytimes.com/2015/08/14/business/breakdown-at-bp-refinery-strains-midwest-gas-prices.html
cam — December 11, 2016
Where in bergen county ? THATS CRAZY ! IM 19 did the same thing from the same place . except I'm in NE now . haha
trumpet — January 9, 2017
People from the east coast are very blunt and people from the Midwest are more political...they will say one thing but mean something else, and will dislike east coast folk's bluntness aka "rudeness".
sagee7 — May 16, 2017
I disagree. Read https://www.travelks.com/articles/post/midwest-living-kansas-flint-hills/ Shemika
Stacy — December 24, 2017
As a transplant to the E.C., I have experienced so much confusion from my MidWestern family. They have not made my life easy emotionally. The M.W. does have a chip on its shoulder.
Judith — November 13, 2018
The Midwest operates from a different manual. It includes conforming to those around you, if you are to be " accepted ". Everything will be " warm and fuzzy '', as long as you don't exercise a mind of your own, or respectfully disagree with anything. In order to " fit in " you must look, act, speak,dress,think and operate like the majority, or you will soon find yourself recognized as "the odd duck" or something even worse, to be gossiped about . I was born and raised in the Midwest, and have never regretted relocating to Arizona.
r — March 16, 2019
I have lived most of my life in the upper midwest the same area the article was about and have felt that pressure to conform to a lot of unspoken rules. I agree with the basic rules in regards to abuse, cheating, etc.. and they are rules for me as well. But, I have conformed to a lot of these unspoken rule, but most the time I leave relationships because the unspoken rules get overwhelming after years. Feels like there is so much pressure to conform to individuals or groups many rules. I wonder if being in another part of the country would change this?