Fashion designer Vera Wang is known world-wide for her bridal gowns, costing from thousands of dollars to tens of thousands of dollars. She opened her first store — in New York City — in 1990. In 2011, her gowns started appearing at the discount David’s Bridal, for as little as $600. Today she has a line at Kohl’s.
Why would someone who can sell a $25,000 wedding dress turn around and sell their name to a low-end department store? The answer has to do with money, of course, but it also tells a story about class and distinction. Typically trends start at “the top” with wealthy and high-profile elites. Elites embrace an expensive new look, designer, or product (e.g., men and high heels) in order to distinguish themselves from the rest of the population. The rest then imitate the trend-setters, such that the trend diffuses down throughout the population one class strata at a time. That’s why Wang’s David’s Bridal and Kohl’s collections are called “diffusion lines.”
Vera Wang is hanging in there, but lots of trends die when they diffuse down to the working class. If the working class can take part in the trend, the rich can’t use it to show that they’re special (which is why they sometimes defend their exclusive rights). So it gets dropped. Once the elites move onto something new, the process begins again.
Interestingly, Whitney Erin Boesel, writing for Cyborgology, applies this process to cell phones, or what are better described as “mobile devices.” It applies, of course, to the never-ending stream of newer, faster, shinier devices, but also to the very idea of a cell phone/mobile device. As much as we make fun of the clunky cell phones of the 1980s and ’90s, very few people had them, so having one suggested that you were a Very Important Person. She writes:
When you picture someone using one of those cumbersome early cell phones, whom do you picture? Is it a white guy in a suit, maybe wearing a Rolex and 1980s sunglasses? Yeah, I thought so. When they first came out, cell phones — like pretty much every brand new, expensive technology — were status markers. A cell phone said, “I am wealthy, I am powerful, and I am so important that people must be able to reach me even when I am away from my home or office.”
Today, of course, though certain models do a little to distinguish one user from another, the possession of a mobile device doesn’t signify elite status. As Boesel points out, more people have cell phones than toilets.
Enter Google glass.
Slate reports that Google co-founder Sergey Brin is arguing that smart phones are “emasculating.” Using masculinity is a metaphor for power, he is appealing to the elite to move on to the next technology. A smart phone, in other words, “no longer signifies [that is a person is] a member of the power elite.” It’s a pretty snappy — and downright Bourdieuian — way of marketing a new technology to the very people who will drive its success.
Brin starts his discussion about this at 4 minutes, 25 seconds:
Cross-posted at Pacific Standard.
Lisa Wade, PhD is an Associate Professor at Tulane University. She is the author of American Hookup, a book about college sexual culture; a textbook about gender; and a forthcoming introductory text: Terrible Magnificent Sociology. You can follow her on Twitter and Instagram.
Comments 19
Heather McNamara — May 22, 2013
My hope is that this goes the way of the hummer3 and Brin's inability to be subtle in his degrading of his market base will be the sword he falls on.
Anna — May 22, 2013
Lisa, I would be very curious to know how you handle critique of your posts in the comment section. I don't expect you to directly answer me - it is your blog, and I respect anyone's choice not to directly respond to their readers/comment section. However I would expect a blogger - and more significantly, a blogger who is a social scientist such as yourself - to indirectly respond to critique, by not presenting a static analysis of something. In this case your top-down view of the trajectory of fashion trends has been blown apart by commenters such as myself including me, time and time again. And yet you keep alluding back to it, unchanged, time and time again.
Your analysis on the trajectory of fashion trends has been called out as highly biased, ethnocentric, limited and dated, and in some cases, outright wrong - anyone with a decent knowledge of fashion theory and cultural studies will tell you as much - and yet you clearly never seem to have revised or even advanced your understanding of it.
This is particularly troubling to me in light of the fact that you are granted the very privileged title of "cultural critic" on the Huffington Post. I would assume that requires an intimate and ongoing study of cultural theory on your part. People read your work on the HP and other respected sites, and trust that you are an informed and credible source. Many will take for granted that your analyses as reflecting contemporary cultural studies.
That carries a huge responsibility not to misinform or mislead people who aren't cultural critics themselves, to the best of your effort. However directly or indirectly, I am very dismayed that you obstinately refuse to engage with repeated critique of your understanding of fashion, an hugely important area of study for any cultural critic.
Larry Charles Wilson — May 22, 2013
Lisa has a Ph.D. which means she can say what she wants and not answer questions...especially if she has tenure.
Brutus — May 23, 2013
How did you come to the conclusion that dominance over others is the reason Brin is using to convince people to adopt Glass. It seems to me after watching the video that tactile feedback, freeing one's hands, using less of the total vision space, and the other reasons he gives to adopt the new product are the reasons that he is giving to adopt his new product.
Rachel Keslensky - Last Res0rt — May 23, 2013
I don't think we use a technology (or a wedding dress, or a set of shoes) because it's expensive, we use it because it gives us some degree of an advantage, social or otherwise. It's only at the far extremes we get the "consumption to look wealthy" deal going on.
Google Glass is more expensive than your average smartphone, but COME ON -- $1500 headset (the developer rate, mind you, which is always going to cost more) vs. a $500 smartphone is not a wide enough chasm to appeal to the "I want it because it costs more" crowd. That's just expensive enough to be comparable to the Mac / PC debate, and likely to result in the same schism.
Kiri — June 24, 2013
Does Sergei Brin know what "emasculate" means? When he used the word, he immediately followed it by a description of having a limited interface with no touch feedback, which has nothing to do with emasculation (and is a good argument for Glass).
Renee — February 16, 2014
Yes, cool products go out to the rich people first. But eventually the cool products will come to people like me and people will make cooler products later. If they made those clunky old cell phones for rich guys in the past... good! Because now there's such a thing as a cell phone and I have one.