TLC’s new reality program, Big Sexy, features five self-identified plus-size women who work in the fashion industry as models, stylists, and makeup artists. Their mission is to challenge contemporary bodily aesthetics that privilege the thin body and demonstrate that fat can be sexy.
In an interview for the Huffington Post, one of the featured women, Heather, explains, “You can be whatever size you want to be and work in the fashion industry.” However, as we see in this clip of Tiffany’s meeting with her modeling agent, that is not entirely the case. In the exchange, the agent informs Tiffany that a client wants her to lose weight and that “it’s a waste of time and money if the numbers are not right.” At her present size, Tiffany was dangerously close to exceeding the boundaries of plus-size required of models.
In modeling, an inch here or there does matter. In my research of plus-size modeling, I have witnessed other plus-size models, like Tiffany, face pressures from their agents to alter their bodies. These women, in order to work in fashion, must utilize their bodies as capital and embark on a variety of body projects. If their measurements are not in perfect proportion, some stick padding onto their hips, “chicken cutlets” onto their breasts, and squeeze themselves into a pair of Spanx. If a model loses weight, clients tell her to do whatever it takes to gain the weight back, even if that means binging on fat-laden foods that can wreak havoc on any individual’s body. Failure to do so would mean the end of her career.
Beauty is a social construction, but these women are not the ones in charge of its construction. Plus-size models must conform to an image created by fashion’s tastemakers, i.e., agents and designers. Ultimately, they must mold their bodies to fit an image, instead of being empowered in a way that allows them mold the image to fit their bodies. In this sense, they face the same pressures as thin models to be within a fraction of an inch of a shape predetermined by others to be acceptable.
Amanda M. Czerniawski is an Assistant Professor of Sociology at Temple University. She specializes in bodies and culture, gender and sexuality, and medical sociology. Her past research projects involved the development of height and weight tables and the role of plus-size models in constructions of beauty. Her current research focuses on the contested role of the body in contemporary feminist discourse.
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Comments 41
Leslee Beldotti — November 20, 2011
I'm curious as to whether or not male models (of any size) are subjected to the same level of scrutiny and demands as their female counterparts?
Aeon Blue — November 20, 2011
It's my belief that it's a retro bit of misinformation to claim that fat-laden foods are damaging. People don't suffer from eating fat-laden foods like oil, nuts, cheese, avocados, or even red meat, they suffer from the sugar, sweeteners, and refined flours that are put into literally every processed food - those are what strain the body and cause uneven energy levels and cravings. As Robert H. Lustig has pointed out, America significantly cut back on the fat and we're still gaining weight and getting sick.
Anonymous — November 20, 2011
The bottom line with modeling and the fashion industry is that the sample sizes used for photo shoots have to fit the models ! I agree that modeling can be a corrosive and unhealthy business, that absolutely creates unrealistic ideals. Changing this from within is a huge challenge. The explosion of plus size models in the mainstream is a start, I think. It is interesting to me that the plus size models are actual adults -- unlike high fashion models who are often too young to even have a drivers license. BUT -- models are selected for how well they photograph. A model that does not fit the clothes, even if she is an absolute beauty will not get much work.
The same demands are placed on women who work as fit models -- their measurements must remain consistent. How clothing fits is based on a particular company's research about their client demographics. It is easy to think that the fashion industry can and should instantly accommodate all sizes and shapes. However -- a business based on a specialty line for petites probably won't start making clothing for tall women, for example.
Anonymous — November 20, 2011
This isn't remotely surprising, as thin models are held to the same standards, more or less. To be honest, I think what needs to change is the society that tells us "this woman is important because she wears clothes in the vicinity of a camera" as opposed to "this woman is important because she is talented, intelligent, or driven."
Anonymous — November 20, 2011
to be honest (and I'm not asking people to agree) The whole idea of modelling as a profession depends on having a 'standard' otherwise, couldn't anybody do it? then there wouldn't really be a career for women in modelling. I don't necessarily believe that standard necessarily implies that certain body types are worthless, I just think it comes with the territory.. If you are selling yourself as a brand, you'd essentially have to manipulate your physical body the way you would a product. There IS danger in that but it seems to go right in hand with the business.
Anonymous — November 21, 2011
With all the talk that's been here about sizes, it really begs the question: why is this even a profession to begin with? It would be a thousand times more effective to put the clothes on robots or mannequins than it is to try a human being into a robot or mannequin.
Darlingcarmen — November 21, 2011
I am a fit model, myself, though a junior medium/contemporary 6 size. And it's true that even a half inch can make or break me. But that is not necessarily a bad thing. The reason a fit model exists is to keep fit in a certain line of clothing consistent. If I lose a half inch in my hips or put on a half inch in my bust mid-season, and the patternmakers fit to my new body, the clothing will fit differently. My job is to remain consistent, so that when I put on a dress or a pair of pants, I can say with confidence, "hey, is the armhole a little small?" and have the patternmaker check and say, "why, yes, it's a quarter inch off," and I will say, "well let's have that quarter inch back, because it's not comfortable this way." I am supposed to be a neutral version of my particular size. In an ideal world, whoever would normally wear a junior medium, whether they're a little bigger or smaller than me in the bust/hips/arms, etc, should fit into something that was fit on me.
Our jobs as fit models is not to be perfect, but to be consistent, and a neutral version of whatever size we are fitting for. I'm sure any fit model will tell you this. It is the least mind-fucking side of the fashion industry there is. We do not go home feeling "fat" or "ugly" unless we are actually working with mean people who deliberately make us feel so, and that's rare, at least in my own experience. Otherwise, most of us keep our measurements and look as good as we can within reason, and depend on our measurements and knowledge of patternmaking and fashion to keep us in the industry as long as we can.
I think we all consider ourselves a bit like athletes. Our bodies have to be in the right shape or we can't do our job right. We work out, and yes, we pad (indeed, I do use "cutlets" occasionally, and even use Spanx occasionally, for certain clients -- but it's not a shameful secret: we are asked to by some, for the fit to be larger or smaller). We're professionals.
Darlingcarmen — November 21, 2011
(Ironically, I was once told to PUT ON weight or lose my job. You bet I did. I was too skinny, anyway. Much happier now.)
Tiffany Bank — November 22, 2011
Thanks for putting this together Amanda and opening up the discussion about the realities of plus modeling in the fashion industry -Tiffany from BIG SEXY
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