Flashback Friday.
I’ve posted about the use of apparent discounts as a marketing tool and about the rise of the shopping cart. Since I’m on a little marketing-related posting trend, I figured I might as well post about restaurant menus. New York Magazine recently provided an analysis of menus and how things such as placement, images, and so on influence purchases.
Here’s the menu analyzed in the article:
Some of the most interesting elements numbered on the menu:
1. Pictures of food on menus are tricky. They can convince people to buy a dish, but more expensive restaurants don’t want to be associated with low-cost places like Denny’s or Applebee’s. In general, the more expensive the restaurant, the less likely there are to be images of food, and if there are, they’re drawings, not color photos. And, apparently, the upper right corner is where customers’ eyes go first, so you need to make good use of that section.
2 and 3. You list something expensive (like a $115 seafood dish) in a prominent spot to serve the same function as a “manufacturer’s suggested retail price” on a sales tag at a retail store: to set an anchor price that makes other prices look like a bargain in comparison. The $70 seafood dish listed next to the $115 one seems way more reasonable than it would have it listed without the comparison anchor price.
5. Listing dishes in a column encourages customers to skim down the list, making it more likely that they’ll be focusing on the column of prices rather than the dishes themselves, and will pick from among the cheapest things on the menu. If the dish names are connected by a line of dots or dashes to specific prices, this is even more pronounced.
8. Restaurants often use “bracketing”:
…the same dish comes in different sizes. Here, that’s done with steak tartare and ravioli — but because “you never know the portion size, you’re encouraged to trade up,” Poundstone says. “Usually the smaller size is perfectly adequate.”
Notice the same things I mentioned in my post about meaningless discounts: high prices used to set an anchor that makes everything else look cheap and an emphasis on apparent savings to distract the customer from how much they’re spending.
And the bracketing thing is marketing genius: the larger portion is usually just a little bit more expensive, so the customer is likely to focus on the fact that the additional amount is actually a bargain, but you usually have very little information about how much bigger it actually is.
Knowledge is power! And now you know.
Originally posted in 2009.
Gwen Sharp is an associate professor of sociology at Nevada State College. You can follow her on Twitter at @gwensharpnv.
Comments 33
Andrew — December 20, 2009
Gwen - you make some really excellent points in an earlier post about fake discounts in retail shops. But this article overlooks a few useful details.
First, take another look at the Hors d'Oeuvres pricing. The ravioli, risotto, and Tartare have a larger-size price listed not to upsell one size over the other, but because many customers request to be served certain appetizers in a larger portion as their main course. If, for example, you're a hungry vegetarian, a scan down the Entree list reveals that there's really nothing for you there. So you'd like the pumpkin ravioli instead, but not just the five little nibbles of goodness in a puddle of butter that is the popular appetizer but rather a whole filling bowl. This menu lets you know, without an awkward query to the server, how much that main course will cost.
As for the price-anchoring technique, restauranteurs aren't just trying to make the other stuff look cheaper. They're also asserting to us that their chef is skillful enough to command $115 for a dish, and that the clientele is rubbing elbows with the sort of diners who can afford to spend $115 on some fish. The prominent placement of these platters (note, the most expensive one shares its name with the restaurant, and is thus identified as the eatery's raison d'etre) appeals to certain notions of class, and nudges diners toward spending more freely to keep up appearances, even though few will actually order them.
The linked article also misinterprets the "Plats du Jour" as the low-margin dishes in Menu Siberia; actually, the day's special is higher-margin than the rest of the menu because it's pre-cooked in bulk, with cheap ingredients rather than steaks or lobsters, for fast turnover. Unless Poundstone knows some technique I don't for braising or stewing small portions of food in 10 minutes...
All in all, the menu geography tells us a lot about our relationship with class and our perception of quality, but it's probably not as sinister as you think.
larry c wilson — December 20, 2009
It warms the cockles of my heart to know that there are Americans who can afford to spend $115 a dish. Let's keep that money circulating...waiters need jobs too.
Anonymous — December 20, 2009
Footnote: One of the best ways to judge a restaurant if you're not a regular is to check whether the menu is clean or dirty, tattered and splotched with food.
gkoenig — December 20, 2009
I think you may have to take into account cultural things too though. I don't know if I'm being typically english but given two sizes I will always choose the smaller portion size because everything these days over here is what we sometimes call 'americanised' as in bigger portions and I just can't eat that much. I just can't remember any occassions seeing people trade up. I remember the first time I went to costas and ordered a 'regular' hot chocolate. I got given a bath of hot chocolate and ever since I've always gone smaller not larger.
loamy — December 23, 2009
Marketing aside, as someone who, some years ago, experienced the $115 seafood "platter" at Balthazar with a friend one afternoon when she wanted a "snack" (she's wealthy, I'm not) I can assure you it is amazing. Four glorious tiers of various seafoods: lobster, crab, shrimps, oysters, clams, mussels, etc. with lemons and cocktail sauces on ice. It was heavenly. The only more satisfying seafood experiences I've ever had were Joe's Stone Crabs taken to go and eaten on the South Point Jetty with friends in Miami Beach back before it became popular, and raw oysters bought from the street vendor at Christmas time in Paris and then eaten with champagne while sitting cross-legged on the floor with my friends in my tiny apartment.
Using Sounds to Encourage Consumption » Sociological Images — March 23, 2010
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xuxumatu — December 18, 2013
we and my girlfriend discover that eat a dish for both in apple bee's and many others and is perfectly enough for both
Eva Válková — December 19, 2013
I've seen few days ago some advertisement about "buy gifts for 1000 czech crownds and you will get anogther gift for 1000 CZK"...people were fascinated by such a expensive gift for free and forgetting amount of money they are going to spend...in vain mostly. -just reaction for the previous post of you. cheers :)
EM — December 19, 2013
Where did number 7 go?
BMGM — May 1, 2015
Did you hear the one about the fisheries researcher who used hotel menus at coastal resorts as fish population data? True story. He was able to track the commercial extinction of varieties of fish as they fell off the dated menus.
The Geography of a Restaurant Menu » Antropologia Masterra — May 3, 2015
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